Perfect shoulder seams

Correction of the pattern in the area of ​​the shoulder sections depends on the shape and width of your shoulders, as well as on the features of your posture.

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IF YOU HAVE SHOULDER SHOULDERS
On the front and back, it is necessary to slightly increase the slope of the shoulder line and, accordingly, deepen the armhole at the side cut (Fig. 1).


IF YOU HAVE DIRECT SHOULDERS
In this case, they do the opposite. Make an increase at the armhole on the shoulder section to the neck and, accordingly, increase the armhole line at the side section (Fig. 2).
IF YOU HAVE AN EXTENDED SHOULDER
With this defect in posture, it is necessary to trace the second halves of the front and back in a mirror image and then glue the parts, aligning the lines of the middle. The halves of the front and backs with lowered shoulders need to be shortened.

In fig. 3 and 4 show how to fix the left shoulder. On the front and back, draw auxiliary (dashed) lines from the left side slice to the lower curvature of the right half of the neck (Fig. 3). Cut the parts along this line from the side cut to the neck cut. At the side cut, lay one edge of the cut on the other to a depth of about 1-2 cm (Fig. 4).

After that, the left side cut of the front and the corresponding side cut of the back should be balanced.
Now it remains to align only the small "steps" of the side cut.
Important: as a result of this change (Figs. 3 and 4), the details of your pattern become asymmetric.When opening the fabric, put the details of the paper pattern on the front side of the fabric with the side with the inscriptions up.WIDTH SHOULDER
On the front and back patterns, draw a vertical line at a distance of approx. 5 cm from the cut of the armhole, and at the level of a third of the height of the armhole (before the rounding begins) a vertical auxiliary line (Fig. 5).
Cut the parts in a horizontal line from the cut of the armhole to a vertical line and in a vertical line from above to a horizontal line. If the shoulder should be narrower, slide the part with the armhole along the shoulder cut to the desired size in the direction of the neck. The edges of the horizontal section at the armhole diverge.

Measure the distance between them and mow the shoulder by the appropriate amount (Fig. 6).
If you want to expand the shoulder, do the opposite.
Important: do not increase the shoulder width by more than 2 cm, otherwise you will not be able to stitch the sleeves well.
Photo: Bassermann Verlag / Beate Bremze, Ruth Rayman, Elke Trier-Schäfer, Heidemar Tengler-Stadelmeier.
Material prepared by Elena Karpova