Sewing a sampler (or layout) of a product is a step that many, especially novice craftswomen, skip. And in vain!
mybluprint The golden rule "measure seven times - cut one" was not invented yesterday and not by chance. And only a few of us were fortunate enough not to encounter bitter regrets when we cut off hastily without measuring these notorious seven times. Of course, the path to excellence is lined with trial and error, but in sewing skills there is an excellent method to minimize losses.
Sewing as a couturier: 4 simple techniques to use in sewing
A probe or mock-up is a test product sewn from mock coarse calico or chintz according to the selected pattern in order to ensure timely correction of structural defects and a perfect fit to the figure. Simply put, this is a test sample sewn from cheap fabric to a full seam from a more expensive one.
If you have not heard of such probes before, you probably already thought that the work will come out, in fact, double, because you need to sew not one, but two products. And here are the very reasons this double game is worth the candle:
mybluprint 1. Landing
Is the product sitting well? Is there enough freedom or, conversely, tight-fitting in the chest, waist, hips? Are there tucks in their places? We all differ from each other even within the same size, so there is always a risk that a pattern that fits one person does not fit perfectly on another with similar parameters. That is why any pattern in most cases needs to be fitted, at least in the details. The probe allows you to timely adjust the size, reliefs, length - before you cut out the very expensive fabric, which was hunted for so long in stores.
We model a sleeve "bishop"
2. Waiting vs Reality
The layout allows you to see with your own eyes how what they promise in photographs or drawings going to the pattern looks like in reality. You can correlate the proportions of lapels, pockets, collar. At this stage, it will be easiest for you to make changes that were not originally laid down in the pattern to your taste. This is the case when you can say "you will not try - you will not know!".
3. Training
If the pattern involves techniques that you have not tried, you simply need to sew a probe. On the layout you can practice without fear and regrets.
4. Location of pockets and buttons
Have you ever sewed a dress, skirt or coat and found it pity to find that your pockets would be bigger, smaller, higher, lower, but you didn’t notice this in time? The same thing happens with buttons. But with the layout you don’t have to blindly trust the pattern, you can change the details in time to your taste.
How to make a split tuck with a pocket on a shelf of a product
5. Save time and money
It seems paradoxical that double work can save time, but it really is. Until you reach the level of Coco Chanel, which could be cut directly on the model, measured seven times is a good idea. Well, as for the money, everything is completely transparent here - one wrong move can ruin the fabric, for which I had to pay a round sum. Therefore, entrust your mistakes with calico or chintz, and save the fine-tuned technique for expensive fabric.
What to sew product probe from?
Lush fabric The standard choice, as mentioned above, is cheap cotton fabric, for example, raw calico or plain chintz. Such a fabric should be stiff enough to avoid skewing.
But sometimes it is useful to sew a probe from a fabric with properties similar to the fabric from which the product will be sewn later, for example, if you are sewing a knitted product.And also, a mock-up is sometimes sewn, which, if desired, can be worn (that is, from the usual inexpensive, but acceptable to wear fabric). It also allows you to sensibly evaluate the pattern.
How to sew a product probe?
The probe is sewn in compliance with all the rules and, most importantly, all the design features of the model, in accordance with the direction of the shared thread. You may be tempted to omit some details, tucks, etc., but do not give in - in this case the whole enterprise loses its meaning! All control lines and markings, and indeed all marks on the fabric are made with an ordinary ballpoint pen. Perform sewing in compliance with the technological steps, not forgetting the wet-heat treatment of the seams.
3 ways to create the perfect armhole in a sleeveless jersey
1. Start by preparing the pattern, adding allowances to it.
oliverands 2. Transfer all control lines, tucks and markings onto your fabric using a regular ballpoint pen. Assuming that the pattern requires a fitting, you can immediately lay a little more fabric in areas that require an exact fit, for example, you can make an additional increase in allowances at the shoulder seams or at the waist.
oliverands 3. Cut out the details and grind the tucks, side and shoulder seams on the front and back parts, and also grind the sleeve parts at the seams. For convenience, increase the length of the stitch, so it will be easier for you to open the seams.
oliverands 4. Cut the neck and armhole allowances, so you can iron them to see how they will look, without wasting time on a full treatment.
The first fitting is best done without sleeves, chipping the middle seam along the back (bend one of the allowances and align the hem with the center of the back) to assess the balance of the product. Then try on with the sleeve set in to make further adjustments.
oliverands 5. Once you are satisfied with your layout, make sure that you make all the important notes directly on the fabric. Then disassemble the probe for details and, if the changes are minor, make adjustments to the original pattern. If the changes are more significant, reconnect the new pattern from the details. For these purposes, it will be easiest to use a copy wheel - put the parts on top of the paper and go over the wheel, and then use a pencil and ruler to prepare a new pattern. You can also use the layout details themselves as a pattern.
